To clean the mussels, put them in a large bowl with 2 quarts of water and 4-5 tbsp. flour and soak for 30 minutes, or until the mussels disgorge any sand. Drain the mussels, then remove the “beard” from each with your fingers. If they’re dirty, scrub the mussels with a brush under running water. Discard any mussels whose shells aren’t tightly shut.
Saute a cup or so of chopped onion (I usually just use one small-medium one) and a couple of cloves of garlic in 4 tablespoons of butter in a big pot over medium heat for a few minutes until tender. Put a big handful of chopped parsely and 2-3 pounds scrubbed mussels into the pot, cover and shake; add two cups of dry white wine, turn heat up to high, cover again and shake to mix, then let cook for about 4-5 minutes until the mussels open.
Then remove the mussles with a slotted spoon, let the wine broth boil down for several minutes, add freshly squeezed lemon juice and heavy cream (about 3/4 cup or so). Simmer to heat through and thicken a bit, check seasoning. Return the mussels to the pot to heat up, then serve in bowls with baguette chunks on the side.
