This New England-style chowder is a comfort-food classic. The soup needs only bread, or traditional oyster crackers, as an accompaniment.

1/4 pound sliced bacon omit
1 tablespoon butter
2 onions, chopped
2 cups water
1 cup bottled clam juice
3/4 pound boiling potatoes (about 2), peeled and cut into 3/4-inch chunks
1 rib celery, chopped
1/4 teaspoon dried red-pepper flakes
1 1/4 teaspoons salt
2 cups fresh (cut from about 3 ears) or frozen corn kernels
1 cup milk
1 cup heavy cream
1 1/2 pounds cod fillets, cut into 1 1/2-inch chunks
1/4 teaspoon fresh-ground black pepper

In a large pot, add the butter and onions to the pot. Cook over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until the onions are translucent, about 5 minutes.

Add the water, clam juice, potatoes, celery, red-pepper flakes, and salt and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until the potatoes are tender, about 20 minutes.

Add the corn, milk, and cream and simmer for 10 minutes. Stir in the cod and pepper. Bring back to a simmer and cook until just done, about 3 minutes longer.

NOTES Fish Alternatives Use a relatively firm, mild fish that won’t disintegrate in the soup, such as pollack, orange roughy, or ocean perch.

CONTRIBUTED BY QUICK FROM SCRATCH FISH & SHELLFISH SERVINGS: 4 FAST With its all-American ingredients,